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            秋分過后天氣轉涼,樹葉變色,這里的針闊混交林里各色交雜,深一片、淺一片,層林盡染,好不壯觀!若是碰上一陣風吹來,聽陣陣松濤,賞五花山色……這愜意,不親臨又怎能體會得到呢?
          2億多年前,西伯利亞地塊與華北地塊發生強烈擠壓時,撞出了一片奇石奇峰,形成了一個國家地質公園——黑龍江省伊春市湯旺河國家地質公園。
          地塊擠壓中,花崗巖漿大規模地沿著張裂隙向上涌動,到距地表10公里處冷凝結晶,形成花崗巖基。大自然的鬼斧神工又把它們雕琢成了別有生趣的奇石,向往來的人們訴說著地球往昔的故事。
           石在林中藏
          樹在石上長

          一到公園大門口,便能感受到林海的名不虛傳。目之所及都是錯落有致的針闊混交林。至于奇石,便要深入這林海之中去探索了——畢竟這占地170多平方公里的園區里,原始森林覆蓋率高達92%,奇石都被好好地“藏”著。
          南區是公園開發最早的區域,也是以構造峰林為主的景觀區。探索奇石的旅程,一般從這兒開始。
          “過不去的人,回去可得管管自己的嘴巴,好好減肥啰!”在入口附近的“一線天”前,游客們正在嬉鬧起哄。這兩座由張裂隙和風化作用形成的石峰,間距剛好容普通身材的人側身通過。
          “一線天”不遠處,一棵老樹吸引了我們的注意。這株逾百年樹齡的紅松,竟長在了石峰上!“石在林中藏,樹在石上長”,真是別有一番生趣。游人稱奇之余,不禁疑問,樹從何來?“是小鳥和松鼠把種子給搬上去的。”導游一語道破。
          南區最抓人的景致便是長吻石了。兩座石峰節理和斷層縱橫交錯,有的石塊乍一瞧像是快要掉落,卻又穩穩當當地在石峰上待著。最驚奇的是,兩座石峰在頂部附近有一塊小石頭相連,就像一對長相廝守的戀人,哪怕風吹雨打、日曬雨淋,也要緊緊擁吻。
           聽松濤陣陣
          看五花山色

          中區更是奇石遍布,但要一睹為快,還得經過一番考驗——登上園區最為陡峭的觀光甬道。甬道共有118級臺階,又窄又高,有些甚至需要側著腳才能踏上去。
          甬道另一頭便是象形奇石了。天蟾迎賓、攀山龜、鯨魚巖、臥天牛、飛天蟒……移步換景,讓人目不暇接。
          這象形石中最有趣的,當屬悟能望月。憨憨的八戒微翹著頭,拱著嘴巴,癡癡地望著天空,似在思念月亮上的嫦娥姐姐。如此可愛的八戒,是由于巖石成分不同、風化過程不同步形成的。巖石的球形風化,形成了渾圓的腦袋瓜和肥大的肚子。八戒的嘴是石英含量較大的細晶巖脈,質地堅硬,所以風化得慢一些。
          中區的游客往往步履匆匆,為何?因為景區觀景塔的58米平臺就在出口附近等著游客吶。
          山路元無雨
          空翠濕人衣

          湯旺河國家地質公園的花崗巖石林類型齊全、發育典型、造型豐富,像是一本地質遺跡教科書。然而,這個國家地質公園、5A級景區的妙處絕不僅限于此。
          在公園西區,小興安嶺豐富多樣的植物圖譜漸次鋪開。這里分布著紅松、云杉、冷杉、白樺、椴樹等上百種珍貴樹種,還有沿途兩側看似不起眼的植物,若不是當地朋友介紹,真是叫不上名來——暴馬丁香、烏蘇里瓦韋、多穗石松、狹葉蕁麻……這樣有入藥價值的植物,竟有100多種!
          西區植被密集,每平方厘米中所含負氧離子高達5萬多個,空氣濕度超過80%。雖已是干爽的秋天,身上還是出了一層薄薄的汗,大有王維詩中“山路元無雨,空翠濕人衣”的意境。
          走出公園,朋友卻帶著我去了另一處地方。這個地方很奇怪。開車久不說,還有陣陣蕭索之感,顧盼四野,竟只有我們兩人!但這個地方又是不得不去的。
          2008年一場颶風席卷湯旺河,這片近50公頃的紅松林瞬間被攔腰斬斷或是連根拔起。據介紹,這次災害的原因,既有早期過量采伐,導致森林的自我防御能力嚴重降低,也有紅松林受重點保護,明顯高出周邊采伐后的次生林的因素。“木秀于林、風必摧之”。災后,湯旺河區將這片林區辟為風災遺址公園,以作警示。
          從林海中走出,若是沿著遺址的木棧道走一圈,眼見那粗壯的樹干橫七豎八倒在地上,對“人與自然和諧相處”這個命題,真真切切是會有更深一層的感受!
            ■小貼士
          從哈爾濱坐K7185次列車可直達湯旺河區。湯旺河城區很小,從火車站步行出來幾分鐘就可到主街道。也可選擇乘飛機到伊春林都機場,驅車約1個半小時,即可到達湯旺河。

          上一篇:大興安嶺秋色濃

          下一篇: 生態寧夏綠意濃——寧夏回族自治區成立60年林業生態建設成效顯著

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